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The raised Star burner is easier to clean than the others.
Even if you take extra care to clean and maintain your appliances, sometimes parts will malfunction, or they will
break. Even if the failure code implicates another component,
the issue can still be with the timer (which means the timer is not displaying the proper information).
Now you can carefully, carefully pull the spirally wire and sensor back through the firewall, through the grommet (if
you have still have one), and then pull the gauge out from the front of the
dash. If you can't easily get a hand back here, you can leave the speedo in until you loosen the dash,
just beware of the wires that are still attached when you pull down the dash.
Use a twist tie or piece of string to tie them to the cross member to get them out of your way.
I spent a lot of time fooling around with this before I finally got radical and solved the problem by
cutting away the stock base and making a new one from an old piece of 1/4″ plywood that was lying around.
You can reuse the old one temporarily, because you
won't be driving the car much with the dash out, but it may
leak under pressure, so beware.
LIGHT, WIPER & FAN SWITCHES -- Each toggle switch is
held to the dash with one of those chrome bezel nuts that you
are now familiar with. IGNITION SWITCH -- Another bezel nut, and it
removes like the other switches. See the Moss catalogue for an illustration of what
this looks like. HEATER/DEFROSTER CONTROLS -- Like the map light knob, the heater control knobs are held on to the
stems with spring-loaded buttons that stick up into
the knob. Find the hole in the plastic knobs, push in the
button with a tiny screwdriver, and wiggle off the knobs.
NOTE: The controls look identical, so you'll want to label them to
make sure you return them to the right spot with the right knobs.
Look for a small hole in the stem of the black
knob. Stick a very small screwdriver or nail into the hole to press in a tiny spring-loaded button that holds the knob to the switch.
Pull each switch out the back of the dash, put the washer back on the stem,
and handscrew the bezel nut back on the switch.
Once you've removed the thumbnut, you can pull the bracket off the mounting screw.
Remove the two thumbnuts from the bracket. While you're
down there, you can reach up with a socket wrench to undo and remove the nut and washers from the far left dash stud, above the fuel gauge.
Once the cable is free, remove the nut behind the dash at the choke
knob and pull the whole cable out from the front of the dash.
With the button pushed in, wiggle the knob off the switch.
CHOKE -- The choke knob is permanently attached to the choke cable, so the whole works has to be pulled out
from the face of the dash. Frozen pipes are a common problem that homeowners may face in the winter.
The problem with a screwdriver is that it WILL slip out of the slot and hit the
dash and scratch it.
If you're repainting your dash anyway, that's not a problem at
this point. Next, remove the two screws that hold the chrome map light lens to the front of the dash.
Cardboard glove box - Chrome bezels for gauges,
if they're old and spotty. If you're constructing a new kitchen or remodeling an old one,
you may wonder what you can do to make you kitchen environmentally green. Now you have a nice hole so you
can easily remove the switches below. Just be
very careful when you put the switches back into your freshly painted dash, or lots
of cursing will ensue. The oil pipe does unscrew from the back of
the gauge, but you've got to be careful with it, or you'll end up
with an oily mess all over your carpet. Unscrew the wide nut that holds the oil pipe to the gauge.
You should reconnect this gauge right away, pushing
the spirally wire back through the firewall to put the
sensor back in the head, and then screwing the oil pipe back on to
the gauge, which will hold it up out of the way.
Have a look at my web blog: "http://Ttlink.com/charisc68/all |
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