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The valve is supposed to prevent back-flow of air into the second
stage outlet tube. This would be respectable for a single stage pump with filthy oil - which this
has. My suspicion at this point was that something was wrong with the second stage.
Apparently there is no relief valve between the first and second stages -
none is visible but it's also possible it is hidden inside and just stuck or clogged.
After disassembling it for the second time and finding the problem, I unstuck
the rubber from the shaft, lined up the broken pieces as best I could,
and added an additional spring of my own to keep them together
- hopefully. The repairman came out the following day and said he fixed
the problem, but it could also be part of another problem, but he was not sure.
American West Appliance Repair sent Mike out same day.
We provide emergency Same Day Jenn Air Dryer repair Services in Stittsville,
Ontario. When the sun shines too brightly for napping or watching television, roll-up
shades -- on those same doors -- stop the glare.
Now on May 8, 2013 the same thing has happened as the serviceman says
that the sealed system has gone out again. This pipe can now be removed from the solenoid.
For a tube that never leaves the pump, like most home-built lasers,
you can put in a fresh fill and flush away dirt. With this pump,
the drained oil always looked reasonably clean and I never
suspected what lurked hidden in the sump. Brush off any debris and clean the tube that leads from the pilot to the
burner. To make a gasket last longer, clean it
regularly with a wet cloth. With the reed valves submerged
in oil, the oil really does the sealing so the reeds don't need to make
gas-tight contact but they need to be present! You see, when it comes to professional appliance repair,
you need to know whether they have previous experience with the appliance type/brand in question.
We know how these situations are handled and how the appliances are perfectly repaired.
One other minor quirk appeared and I don't know whether it is
inherent to this pump or due to my reed valve which may work too well:
If left under vacuum when switched off, after awhile
the pump chambers fill with oil. At first I thought the slight gap between the
reeds in the original reed valve was there to allow venting after shutdown as it would drain the
small amount of oil in the reed valve compartment and then suck atmospheric pressure air into the pump
chambers rather than oil. If my RF source is turned on for
a few seconds and then turned off, the pressure drops still further but creeps back to its previous reading.
Initially, I didn't realize that there was anything wrong with the seal and put the pump back together.
But there was very definite suction. Imagine my surprise when placing a finger over it resulted in suction! So,
I turned my polyethylene reed over - it has smooth and rough sides - to use its rough side in the hope that would reduce the seal
and act as a substitute. It pumped fine but
leaked all over the table. The shaft seal (and reed valve) are holding up just fine.
This is one reason why using flushing oil is important - no matter how
many plain oil changes are performed, they won't dislodge the crud
at the bottom of the sump. In this case, the
chance of any damage from it would have been minimal since
it was clearly minding its business at the bottom of the sump but
that never stopped me from ripping things apart.
In any case, new oil should allow it to maintain 15 microns or maybe even slightly better without cooling which isn't bad
for an old refrigeration service pump. With the pump attached to my home-built thermocouple gauge, the pressure reached 30 microns before the shaft seal started gushing oil.
Normally, a strong spring maintains pressure
on the rotating part of the seal with the rubber sleeve sliding on the shaft to adjust as the pump assembly is slid in place.
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